Wednesday, June 6, 2012
A friend came by our room at
7:20 and said that he was going to Orthros and if anyone wanted to join him we
could. I was grateful for his knock because no one had set an alarm. I
stayed in my bed for a few minutes and talked a bit with my roommates.
Apparently during the night there was a giant milipede above the
icons on the wall above my head. They had to step next to my head on a chair to
kill it and apparently I stirred. I don’t remember anything.
I brushed my teeth and got dressed.
I left around 7:50, hoping to make the end of Orthros which was supposed to
start at 7:30. When I walked into the narthex I heard «και εις τους αιώνας των αιώνων.» «Αμήν.» «Εν ειρήνη του Κυρίου
δεηθώμεν.» «Κύριε ελέησον.» I told myself that it was way too late in
Orthros to be doing the Great Litany. I also wondered why it was in Greek. I
looked in and saw a priest standing at the Altar fully vested. I told myself, “they just started
Liturgy!!” I kicked myself for not knowing, and for not preparing to receive
Holy Communion or getting there earlier. I stood in the back and started to follow
the Greek Liturgy – what else could I do?
I was confused. The Liturgy was 90%
Greek and 10% Albanian. I figured out that the first priest didn’t even know
Albanian. There was a second priest who apparently knew both languages. It also
became apparent that the chanter didn’t know Albanian. He kept doing wrong
responses – even not knowing Albanian you would think that knowing the Liturgy
you would know when to say “Lord have mercy” and when to say “To Thee, O Lord.”
Oh well. I wanted to stay till the end but the Anaphora dragged on. Finally, at
8:55 we had to leave for our 9:00 meeting with the Metropolitan. It was right
before the priest came out with the chalice.
We ran through the streets to the
Metropolis and got there about a minute before everyone went inside. Fr. Luke
gave us a hard time for almost being late. I didn’t want to leave before the
end and kept hoping the Liturgy would end before we had to leave but it didn’t! :(
In the meeting with His
Eminence we
reviewed our hike and he told us some more pearls, among which was
elaboration
on the issue of complaining. Ladi served us a delicious syrupy sweet –
typical
Albanian hospitality. We stayed in the His Eminence’s office until
9:40-ish. Afterwards I asked him about the Liturgy. He said they usually
only do Liturgy on Sundays and Feast days but there was a group
visiting from Greece that wanted to do Liturgy. That explains the
Liturgy, and why it was in Greek!
We
then left and went back down to the Cathedral where everyone took pictures and
marveled :)
I returned to my room and packed up my things with my roommates. We were to
be ready at 11:00 to leave. At 10:50 I went with three others to
buy a gyro. We had trouble finding a gyro place but one of them said it was worth it
because it was very good. We returned at 11:06 when
everyone was already on the bus. Fr. Luke pulled me aside and scolded me for
being late so many times. We hurried onto the bus and were on our way back to
Tirana, through the winding mountains.
We stopped for lunch
where we had
stopped for ice cream on Monday, at a nice restaurant along the mountain
road.
I got a traditional Elbasan dish which was liver, geeze (some kind of
Albanian
traditional cheese) and yogurt, all mixed together in a bowl. It was
interesting. It was good. I also had part of Matthew’s that he didn’t
want,
which was a big bone in a bowl of what looked like hot, curdled yogurt.
That
wasn’t too good. It was ok. The restaurant has a way of going down to
the mountain creek, and it has peacocks too :) It was very beautiful
scenery!
We returned to Tirana around 4:35.
At 5:05-ish we left with Fr. Luke for an optional trip to downtown to Tirana.
All came except Italian/Russian couple. Fr. Luke and the other professor spoke to a women’s group
at the center near the cathedral at 5:30. We had strict orders to be ready to
go at 6:30. If we weren’t there by 6:35, they would leave and we would have to
take a taxi back (not knowing Albanian). I stopped inside the Cathedral and
asked when daily Vespers was. I was told 6:30. I was disappointed and then went
with others of the group to get some lek from an ATM because I needed to pay
Fr. Luke back and to have some money for the next day.
We were at the Cathedral at 6:30
and since Fr. Luke wasn’t ready to go I stepped inside to hear Vespers. It
turned out that I was able to stay for the whole thing – it was done in 15
minutes!! I don’t understand Albanian but I think they have a standard Vespers
that they do every day and don’t chant the hymns of the day, except for the
Apolytikion. I know they skipped the Aposticha. That’s how they were done so
quickly!
We left around 6:50 or 6:55. Fr.
Luke didn’t come with us – he went to visit some people around the city. The
wonderful surprise was that Nathan, Gabriela and Daniel Hoppe came with us! I
rode in their rustic old car up to the Tabor Center. It is wonderful to be
around them!
We ate dinner and after
dinner I
had the honor of watching Daniel while his parents took a break and
talked to the other professor for 20-30 minutes. That was really fun! I
put in some laundry that
night in an old machine that took two hours to wash, and went to bed.
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